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RESOURCES
The NOAA website explains what is considered wave height by scientists. A graphic shows exactly what they are talking about. The website explains how waves change in different weather.
This Discovery video talks about how surfers measure the height of the wave. Judges use the height of the surfer to figure out what the height of the wave is. There is some inconsistency as to determining the bottom of the wave.
In this NOAA Ocean Explorer activity users can change the slope angle for a surfer to see how waves are formed. Users need to answer questions about how the slope was changed and observed. There are additional questions that require computing wavelength and the speed of a wave.
The Sciencing website discusses what a swell is, how it is formed, the height of the swell, the period of the swell, and the direction of the swell. It also talks about how a surf forecaster will give the swell height.
This video describes how swells form during a storm. The video uses an actual body of water to simulate what happens in a storm and shows how the swells move away from the storm.
The Oxford Dictionary website gives the formal definition of whitecap.
This video shows animation of whitecaps on the ocean. The animation is compared to still pictures of actual ocean scenes with whitecaps.
The NOAA website explains a rogue wave. It also talks about how rogue waves were not accepted as a phenomenon until recently. Very few reasons are known why rogue waves happen.
This SciShow video explains how rogue waves were not believed until 1995 when a rogue wave slammed into Draupner Oil platform off Norway. This was the first scientifically documented rogue wave. Rogue waves are different from tsunamis and this video explains the difference.
This National Geographic website explains what a tidal bore is and where they can be found. It discusses the possible sizes of tidal bores and why tidal bores can be dangerous. The website gives factors that allow tidal bores to happen.
This National Geographic video shows the world's largest tidal bore located in China's Qiantang River.
The NOAA website gives the definition of a tsunami and explains they are due to earthquakes or volcanic eruptions under the sea. The website also points out that many people call them tidal waves, but that is being discouraged by oceanographers because tsunamis have very little to do with tides.
This MonkeySee video explains what causes a tsunami. It also explains where a tsunami gains its height and when it begins to slow down. It talks about how scientists monitor the ring of fire in order to warn areas at risk for tsunamis.